TUTORIAL – Company of Iron Custom Epoxy Tokens…

So you got your Command Deck for Company of Iron but no tokens. Fear not! Here’s a quick and easy way to create your own set using a little elbow grease.



  • EK Tools 1″ Circle Punch or 1″ Square Punch (These can also be found at most Michael’s stores for under $10). You can also choose to get other sizes like the 0.75″ or 0.50″ for smaller tokens. Just be to get the correct size epoxy stickers and print at the proper scale! (100%=1″, 75%=0.75″, 50%=0.50″)
  • 63 or more 1″ clear circle or square Epoxy Stickers (Ebay has the best deals usually)
  • A print out of either the CIRCLE or SQUARE Company of Iron PDF tokens (I also prefer to print on glossy photo paper for the most vibrant colors)
  • Scissors, Hobby Knife, Xacto Knife, or any kind of paper cutting tool




STEP 1 – After you print out the tokens, cut them into rows of two so it’s easier to punch them out


STEP 2 – Center the token in the puncher and punch away! I created a large border so you don’t have to be perfect


STEP 3 – I then use my fingers to guide the token onto the epoxy sticker with my other hand


STEP 4 – Lay the token on a flat surface and rub it all over to eliminate any air pockets


STEP 5 – For the Objective tokens simply write on the backside



Now you know how to create your own custom tokens for just about anything if you’re savvy in any graphic design program (or have a friend that is).

TUTORIAL – Custom Magnetic Army/Miniature Case


There are several players in my local meta that have spent years building all kinds of magnetic cases. So I decided to poke and prod their brain about it. A big shout out goes to Dustin, Trevor, and Michael for the inspiration and knowledge dropped on my head. Let’s get straight into it shall we!



It should cost you around $40-$45 (not including magnets). I got the really useful box from Orchard Supply Hardware and everything else from Home Depot in the USA.

  • Really Useful Box (There seems to be a standard “footprint” for a certain size range. I used a 18L, while others have used 21L or smaller. It really depends on how much height you want, so it’s best to measure your tallest model so see which size box suits your needs.) – $14-$18
  • 2 pieces of Galvanized Steel Flashing Shingle – $2
  • 2 bottles of Liquid Nails Perfect Glue(Home Depot) (Amazon)– $8-11 (1 bottle per shingle sheet)
  • Cabinet Handle and hardware of your choice – $4-$8
  • Some extra #8-32 mechanical screws 3/8″ long in case your cabinet hardware screws are too long – $1
  • 2-4 washers that fit your mechanical screws above – $1-$2
  • Sandpaper or sanding sponge with a low grit count – $4
  • 2 adjustable flat strap bungee cords (30″ bungee cords fit the 18L box) – $7
  • Dremel or Powerdrill with a proper sized bit for mechanical screws (5/32″ works for #8-32 sized screws)
  • Rare earth magnets (I prefer 1/4″ x 1/16″ discs because they fit under most bases without extruding out). You can also get these on ebay for cheaper (usually 100 for $10 or less).


There are a lot of handles you can choose from!



STEP 1 – Sand the inner bottom of the case to create some texture for the glue to grip better.


STEP 2 – Get rid of the shavings and use a wet towel to clean any residue off.


STEP 3 – The footprint of the box where you will be applying the glue should be around 12″x15″. Apply the glue and spread it around (using the perfect glue cap) to get as much coverage as possible. Then place the shingles centering on the raised area only (They shouldn’t touch any of the inner walls as seen above). The shingles will overlap roughly 1″ over each other in the middle so be sure to save a little glue for that part.


STEP 4 – Use anything(s) heavy to apply pressure on it. It will take about 24 hours to fully cure.


STEP 5 – Measure, mark, and center your cabinet handle screw holes. I used a Uni-ball pen so I could just wipe off the marks after. Use your dremel or powerdrill on a low setting and only apply light pressure when drilling. Let the bit do most of the work and it should eventually go through without any cracking.


My cabinet hardware included screws that were too long. The black marks the proper depth so I had to buy some shorter ones.


STEP 6 – Screw in your cabinet handle using the washers for the underside.


STEP 7 – Glue those magnets on. I like to use Gorilla Super Glue or Gel for this. I let them also sit on their sides for 12-24 hours.



The height of the 18L box. I can fit most of the Colossals/Gargantuans/Battle Engines!



Voila! Done son (after 24 hours of waiting)!

Steamroller in February…

I started to run a monthly Steamroller Tournament that requires being fully painted and based. It’s been great putting some fire under people’s asses to finally paint up their models. It also helps create a mental deadline for themselves to finish painting their lists they want to play. Enjoy the pics!

Las Vegas Open 2017 photo dump…

Once again, see what you missed! I did miss taking pics on their busiest day which was Saturday due to Jugding/TOing all day. Anyways…ENJOY!

Lock & Load 2016 photo dump…

Live vicariously once again through pics! Another one in the books.

Kingdom-Con 2016 photo dump…

Here’s some pics from Kingdom-Con 2016. I had a amazing time once again!

NEWS – What’s in store for 2016…

2015 was a pretty good year for for me regarding tabletop gaming. I still have a big backlog of pics to take of finished miniatures, but I’ve been enjoying being a slacker too much. So what’s in store for me and this blog in 2016? Well I will tell you!

  • I have retired my Khador this year & will be focusing on Minions & Trollbloods
  • Some friends & I are doing a 10 points a month painting challenge for Warmachine & Hordes. People who do not accomplish it will have to pay $10 into a pot we will use for quarterly events for all those participating
  • Paint & play more Guild Ball
  • Finish more Infinity models so I have a couple 300 point list options

INFINITY Yu Jing Remote Yaoxie Lu Duan…

My last Yaoxie remote and I’m all done now. This baby also has a nice heavy flamethrower which is nice for ARO purposes if you’re worried about hitting hard targets. This is the remote I use the most since he has a diverse set of weapons paired with the Mk12 which is a weaker HMG.

yu_jing_remote_yaoxie_lu_duanFlame on!

  1. Touch Tone Flat Grey Primer (Cheap automotive primer!)
  2. Base coat colors using Vallejo Game Colors
  3. Army Painter Dark Tone Ink all over the miniature
  4. Highlight lens with a glow effect
  5. Bases are comprised of Basecrafts Autumn Scatter & Basecrafts Mixed Leaves
  6. I then varnish with Rust-oleum Painter’s Touch Gloss Coat (Non-Yellowing & UV Resistant) & then use Testors Dullcote to subdue the shine