TUTORIAL – How I paint…the “Lazy Blackwash” way!

So I have been getting pretty positive responses on my “Lazy Wash” style which is a oldschool method before “The Dip” came around. You have much more control with the wash and you can reapply where necessary which makes it a nice “tabletop plus” paint job. The main reason why I like this method is the wash really brings out all the details compared to drybrushing.

I thought I would show how each major step looked so here goes…

  1. White P3 Primer (Helps minimize having to paint multiple base coats.)
  2. Base coat colors (This is the longest process & the cleaner/tighter you do this the less touch up after.)
  3. Citadel Badab Black wash or Army Painter Dark Tone Ink all over the miniature using a soft FLATBRUSH. This is very important because it will cover a greater amount of area in a shorter amount of time. I then push and pull the wash around to try it keep it minimal on large flat areas. Remember the wash will darken EVERYTHING  by one to two shades so choose you base coat wisely! (You can see in the 3rd frame how much the black wash has changed the colors!)
  4. After the ink/wash dries you can choose to re-apply more to specific areas
  5. I then paint the darker base color of the flesh. Next paint the lighter/highlight flesh (Be sure to water them down a bit so it doesn’t get crusty). I also touch up minimal highlights like teeth, bones, studs, rivets, etc.
  6. The splatter gore effect was accomplished using 1 part Vallejo Rojo Visceral Gory Red and 3-4 parts Citadel Devlan Mud Wash. A much easier option I use now is Tamiya X-27 Translucent Red (Use the Tamiya AFTER you’ve sealed your model). I load up a size 2-3 flat brush and flick it using a toothpick. Paint will get all over so protect the other parts of you paint job! I use post-it notes/notepad paper.
  7. I then quadrant the base and paint it.
  8. Basing is done by first super gluing any extra features (trees, rocks, etc.), then adding Woodland Scenics flock grass using PVA Glue or Mod Podge, and use a Autumn Mix Leaf Scatter placed using tweezers.
  9. I then seal the miniature using Rust-Oleum Gloss Finish and then Testor’s Dullcote
  10. And finally I finish the final details using Vallejo Gloss Varnish only on his mouth & blood spattered axe to give it a wet/fresh feel

So that’s basically how I roll ;p

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3 thoughts on “TUTORIAL – How I paint…the “Lazy Blackwash” way!

    • Thanks! I will be re-taking photos of everything once my lightbox comes in!

      The faces are fairly simple. I just use black for the eyes/mouth, dark brown for the undercoat, and a flesh tone.

      Hope that helps!

  1. Forgot to mention that I’m not a fan of “the dip” method of shading as I’ve seen it too thickly applied 99% of the time, especially , as you say, you can get more control (and a much beter look IMHO) by using washes.

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