TUTORIAL – Company of Iron Custom Epoxy Tokens…

So you got your Command Deck for Company of Iron but no tokens. Fear not! Here’s a quick and easy way to create your own set using a little elbow grease.



  • EK Tools 1″ Circle Punch or 1″ Square Punch (These can also be found at most Michael’s stores for under $10). You can also choose to get other sizes like the 0.75″ or 0.50″ for smaller tokens. Just be to get the correct size epoxy stickers and print at the proper scale! (100%=1″, 75%=0.75″, 50%=0.50″)
  • 63 or more 1″ clear circle or square Epoxy Stickers (Ebay has the best deals usually)
  • A print out of either the CIRCLE or SQUARE Company of Iron PDF tokens (I also prefer to print on glossy photo paper for the most vibrant colors)
  • Scissors, Hobby Knife, Xacto Knife, or any kind of paper cutting tool




STEP 1 – After you print out the tokens, cut them into rows of two so it’s easier to punch them out


STEP 2 – Center the token in the puncher and punch away! I created a large border so you don’t have to be perfect


STEP 3 – I then use my fingers to guide the token onto the epoxy sticker with my other hand


STEP 4 – Lay the token on a flat surface and rub it all over to eliminate any air pockets


STEP 5 – For the Objective tokens simply write on the backside



Now you know how to create your own custom tokens for just about anything if you’re savvy in any graphic design program (or have a friend that is).


TUTORIAL – Custom Magnetic Army/Miniature Case


There are several players in my local meta that have spent years building all kinds of magnetic cases. So I decided to poke and prod their brain about it. A big shout out goes to Dustin, Trevor, and Michael for the inspiration and knowledge dropped on my head. Let’s get straight into it shall we!



It should cost you around $40-$45 (not including magnets). I got the really useful box from Orchard Supply Hardware and everything else from Home Depot in the USA.

  • Really Useful Box (There seems to be a standard “footprint” for a certain size range. I used a 18L, while others have used 21L or smaller. It really depends on how much height you want, so it’s best to measure your tallest model so see which size box suits your needs.) – $14-$18
  • 2 pieces of Galvanized Steel Flashing Shingle – $2
  • 2 bottles of Liquid Nails Perfect Glue(Home Depot) (Amazon)– $8-11 (1 bottle per shingle sheet)
  • Cabinet Handle and hardware of your choice – $4-$8
  • Some extra #8-32 mechanical screws 3/8″ long in case your cabinet hardware screws are too long – $1
  • 2-4 washers that fit your mechanical screws above – $1-$2
  • Sandpaper or sanding sponge with a low grit count – $4
  • 2 adjustable flat strap bungee cords (30″ bungee cords fit the 18L box) – $7
  • Dremel or Powerdrill with a proper sized bit for mechanical screws (5/32″ works for #8-32 sized screws)
  • Rare earth magnets (I prefer 1/4″ x 1/16″ discs because they fit under most bases without extruding out). You can also get these on ebay for cheaper (usually 100 for $10 or less).


There are a lot of handles you can choose from!


magnetcase03STEP 1 – Sand the inner bottom of the case to create some texture for the glue to grip better.

magnetcase04STEP 2 – Get rid of the shavings and use a wet towel to clean any residue off.

magnetcase05STEP 3 – The footprint of the box where you will be applying the glue should be around 12″x15″. Apply the glue and spread it around (using the perfect glue cap) to get as much coverage as possible. Then place the shingles centering on the raised area only (They shouldn’t touch any of the inner walls as seen above). The shingles will overlap roughly 1″ over each other in the middle so be sure to save a little glue for that part.

magnetcase06STEP 4 – Use anything(s) heavy to apply pressure on it. It will take about 24 hours to fully cure.


STEP 5 – Measure, mark, and center your cabinet handle screw holes. I used a Uni-ball pen so I could just wipe off the marks after. Use your dremel or powerdrill on a low setting and only apply light pressure when drilling. Let the bit do most of the work and it should eventually go through without any cracking.


My cabinet hardware included screws that were too long. The black marks the proper depth so I had to buy some shorter ones.


STEP 6 – Screw in your cabinet handle using the washers for the underside.


STEP 7 – Glue those magnets on. I like to use Gorilla Super Glue or Gel for this. I let them also sit on their sides for 12-24 hours.



The height of the 18L box. I can fit most of the Colossals/Gargantuans/Battle Engines!



Voila! Done son (after 24 hours of waiting)!

TUTORIAL – How to play Warmachine…

Hey all! It’s been awhile and yes I am still alive. I actually have a lot of pics to take since I have finished painting so many miniatures since my last posting.

In the meantime here are some great videos showing how the game play works and another explaining how terrain works.

Happy New Year everybody!

TUTORIAL – Custom Ogrun Bokur…

I was recently inspired by a No Quarter magazine article about customizing your Ogrun Bokur. I liked the idea of it but didn’t like how some of the newer weapon conversions weren’t very game friendly. I decided to look in my own bitz box and see what I had that I could possibly use. What happened next was basically a happy accident. So without further ado, here’s a quick and easy way to buff up your Ogrun Bokur with minimal modding and parts!custom_bokur_001PARTS & TOOLS NEEDED

  • Plastic Warjack melee weapon (I used a Khador Destroyer’s axe)
  • Plastic Khador Spriggan Headguard and Shield
  • Hobby Pliers/Cutters (I recently bought a Xuron 410 which are pretty amazing!)
  • X-acto Knife
  • A file, sandpaper, or a Dremel
  • Pin vice & some brass rod (Any size except super thin)
  • Superglue
  • Green Stuff (Lip Balm to make it easier to sculpt with)

custom_bokur_002STEP 1 – Cutoff the Ogrun’s weapon tip to desired length, file it flat, and pin it


STEP 2 – Cutoff the desired axe you want to use, file it flat, then line it up with your pin

custom_bokur_005STEP 3 – File down the Spriggan shield, Ogrun Bokur arm, then proceed to pin it. Green stuff the little hole on his arm where the original shoulder pad was meant to go as well.

custom_bokur_003STEP 4 – Dry fit the Spriggan headguard. It should almost fit perfect. Greenstuff it down

custom_bokur_007The final results when everything comes together! NOW THAT’S A SHIELD GUARD!

custom_bokur_006Does my chainmail make my ass look fat?


TUTORIAL – Hordes Minions Swamp Horror conversion…

So I’m sure most of you out there will agree that the Swamp Horror art in the Hordes Domination book got you excited. Then the model came out and a “Awww man?!” could be collectively heard around the globe. I know there are several other tutorials out there on the interwebs that show you how to cut this octopus up and make it look like it’s rising out of the swamps, but they all involve too much green stuff/epoxy/modeling for my taste. I knew there had to be a easier way?! So here’s my super easy/lazy way of converting your Swamp Horror without any green stuff whatsoever!


  • Hobby Pliers/Cutters (I recently bought a Xuron 410 which are pretty amazing!)
  • Razor Saw (You can find them for around $6USD-$7USD)
  • X-acto Knife
  • A file of some kind
  • Pin vice & some brass rod (Any size except super thin)
  • Superglue
  • A hollow base if water effects are desired for later (Secret Weapons Bases or DIY)

swamphorrortutorial01Get all your tools ready, we’re going to be ripping things apart!

swamphorrortutorial02Use your Razor Saw to cut the main body as you desire.

swamphorrortutorial03Use your Razor Saw & Pliers to cut up the tentacles so you ultimately will have 3 separate ones. File and smooth down the bottom of all your pieces so it can sit on the base properly.

swamphorrortutorial04Dry fit all the pieces to make sure they sit flat and how you want to arrange them.

swamphorrortutorial06Use your Pin Vise and brass rods to superglue all the brass rods to the pieces. Figure out a arrangement you like and mark it by scratching the surface of the base with the brass rods on your pieces. Pin vice holes into your base for final placement. I also physically bent some of the tentacles so they were more dynamic. Glue everything down when you’re ready!

swamphorrortutorial07And now your all done! Wasn’t that easy?! This conversion also helps remind you that it has 1 bite & 3 tentacle attacks 🙂

TUTORIAL – Khador Battle Engine Gun Carriage Walker…

Alright so here’s a step-by-step breakdown on how I built this sucka. This is my first really big conversion project and it’s still pretty easy compared to a lot of the more hardcore modders out there. So hopefully this will encourage those to try a conversion project and also show that some aren’t that too crazy to do yourself with minimal experience! Here we gooooooo!

Tools used are as follows…

  1. X-acto/Hobby Knife/Blade
  2. Jeweler’s Saw
  3. Dremel
  4. 4 Rare Earth Magnets (1/4″ wide by 1/8″ thick)
  5. Plasticard (1/16″ thickness)
  6. Pin vice & brass rod (very little)
  7. Dust Tactics Medium Assault Walker (around $15-$20USD)
  8. Dozer Blade (optional, I used a old GW one)

1. Line it up to see where you are going to need to cut/score the carriage bottom

2. Score the general cutting guidelines with your x-acto knife. It doesn’t need to be precise as the legs have some room to be flexible. I ended the bottom right below the turrets.

3. Use the Jeweler’s saw to cut out the main big chunks. Be careful when pulling it back out. They are so thin that I broke 3-4 of them during this process.

4. After the main chunks are cut off, your going to use the Dremel to smooth out the shape so you get a nice fit between the legs.

5. Dry fit the carriage onto the legs and keep sanding it down with the Dremel until it fits nice and snug.

6. Score and Dremel holes for your magnets. I advise instead of lining them up like I did you actually make one further forward and one further back so it has minimal tilting/swaying/teetering.

7. I opted to put a dozer blade because it looks cooler plus I imagine it knocking down trees while stomping through the forest. I did a simple pin job to make sure it stayed on nice and tight.

Notice there’s a BIG gap on the sides.

8. This was literally the hardest part of the conversion. Measuring and getting the right size armor piece to fill the gap. It took some trial and error and I had a little wiggle room for error since the dozer I used was curved. I just made 1 and used it as a template for the other side. I then scored a line in the middle to try and match the armor on the carriage and gently bent the plasticard. Be careful as to not break it in 1/2 since it will make it a lot harder to glue it to the carriage. I broke one of the sides and I simply used tape to keep it together. I knew the glue would hold the rest.

9. I went ahead and glued the magnets with a little bit of epoxy around the empty spaces to make sure they stayed on nicely. Be sure to mark your magnets so you don’t reverse the polarization! I advise letting the epoxy harden over 12-24 hours otherwise the magnets will most likely still rip out.

10. How you make rivets is really up to you. I just ended up rolling some epoxy up and let it dry overnight and proceeded to cut pieces off. I went a little too crazy with the glue as you can see below and they were too large compared to the rest of the rivets. I also added some extra Behemoth spikes I had to the side of the walker legs.

11. I then use more epoxy and rounded off the base on the walker legs. I wasn’t too worried about making the base look perfect since I use flock for my basing. If you use normal basing grit you will probably want to smooth it out much more than I did. I also just pinned the soldier popping out in the rear but painted him separately which is why you don’t see him here.

I originally wanted to do a 4 legged walker like the oldschool Revell Robotech models but the Dust Tactics model just happened to fit so perfectly. Plus this was much easier and cheaper for me.


Now since the Gun Carriage is magnetized it is easier to travel with and it does fit nicely in the 3″ Battlefoam pluck tray. And yes there’s space for another Gun Carriage in that tray 😉

TUTORIAL – Badab Black Wash Blues…make your own washes!

Ohhhhh GW. So GW has changed their entire paint line with all new names as well as a different production plant. My LGS got the whole new entire line and I was able to test out Nuln Oil which is the new replacement for Badab Black. Unfortunately it’s very different and doesn’t flow as well as Badab. It tends to cling on to flat surfaces and leaves a much thicker layer of darkness compared to good old Badab Black. Fortunately I did buy some extra bottles before the switch. Hopefully I have enough to finish both my main forces. Since the new Nuln Oil is a game changer for me I will probably start making my own black wash ink. Check the video below to see how!

LINK to in-depth article of all the items you’ll need and directions!